Typically it takes a unsuitable turn to get to the precise place. Final season, Massimiliano Giornetti’s experiments with reduce and proportion felt compelled. Deconstruction is just not the Salvatore Ferragamo approach. The Fall collection he confirmed right this moment hewed extra traditional with out wanting secure. It’s exhausting to argue with the stand-up collar blanket cape in brushed plaid that he opened with, or the sleeveless black cashmere wrap dress piped in leather-based that got here sweeping down the runway a few appears to be like later.
When Giornetti did enterprise some risks, he restricted his experiments to the surface of fabrics—needle-punching jacquard or dipping leather pleats in metallic paint. The men’s assortment he confirmed for the label final month took a homey turn. There was a warming trend right here as nicely, in pieces like a black wrap coat, of which solely the hem was decorated with a white animal-spot pattern. Whether it was embroidered or painted, you could not tell, but it surely lent a depth and richness to the coat that felt true to this house. It was a feeling that carried via to a pair clingy ribbed-knit dresses at the top that appeared brushed with gold leaf.