MILAN – The relaxed silhouette of the Salvatore Ferragamo menswear collection for subsequent summer seems almost to deny the traditional tailoring liable for its creation.
Massimiliano Giornetti, who has been designing Ferragamo menswear for 14 years, outlined the silhouette as mild.
“It is totally deconstructed,” he mentioned backstage after the preview present Sunday, the second day of Milan Vogue Week. It’s a deconstruction that doesn’t seek to challenge the sartorial rules, but reasonably reinforce them.
As if to emphasize the fluidity of the look, the colour that unites the gathering is an aqueous blue-green, which matches soothingly with earthier tones of rust, grey, brown and beige.
The gathering centres on sportswear, with quite a lot of jackets together with longer overcoats, double-breasted jackets which are slightly cropped, blousons with gathered waists that operate as a bomber jacket and, inventively, blazers which can be belted from the inside or outside.
At times, Giornetti skews the jacket zipper or buttons simply barely to the facet for a subtle asymmetrical look. For a gentle-hearted touch, he has lined the jackets with a giraffe pattern, visible when sleeves are rolled up, and on some matching items.
“I used to be thinking of a sentimental journey the sound of Africa coming back and forth,” Giornetti said. “But this isn’t an African assortment.”
The outfits are finished with double-pleated trousers or free-fitting Bermudas. Emphasizing the casual nature of the gathering, scarves are favoured over ties.
For the traveller, Giornetti designed large totes in waxed suede with leather accents on the corners and handles. Sneakers, Ferragamo’s calling card, are sturdy sandals and lace-ups with strong soles and thick fringe.