Salvatore Ferragamo Spring 2017 Menswear Collection

Ferragamo Sofia Calfskin Sioux Bag in Orange (SIENNE+ROUILLE+CACAO ...The Salvatore Ferragamo runway was finely furnished as a kind of inside-out summerhouse, courtesy of Leclettico gallery’s Claudio Loria. And Massimiliano Giornetti’s clothes were almost as artfully curated this season. “Cool is a word I don’t love, but I have never found a unique definition yet,” he said backstage. “English shouldn’t be my language.” Which may be so, but he used plenty of English mohair within the section that was perhaps the least cool in this show, the tailoring. Stamped with Memphis color and block, it was impeccably cut stuff. But in comparison with the embellishment-spattered T-shirts—embroideries of cacti and blue-faced simians—or the kaleidoscopically striped sweaters, particularly the piece with a deep V drawn in multiple bolts of fabric, the suiting looked tame.

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Ties worn outside knits was a trite, not-wrong-enough-to-be-right styling notion, however the ’50s-touched blousons had a languid cool (who can find a greater definition?). Exotic sandals and saw-soled, vulcanized sneakers were, crucially, perfect for a collection that pitched for retro-radical bohemianism, and which sometimes could just have been described as streetwear.

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