For his debut collection as Salvatore Ferragamo’s design director of women’s footwear, Paul Andrew has stayed ahead of the curve, updating the Florentine fashion house’s signature F-shaped wedge first created in 1947 in suede and velvet variations. ‘I have been researching the shoes within the house’s archive and that is something that salvatore Ferragamo was never in a position to do,explains the English-born, New York-based designer.
‘When I used to be designing the collection, I started serious about Richard Serra and the way in which he works with form. The shape of his Torqued Ellipse sculptures are very harking back to the F-shaped wedge. It’s very undercut and dramatic. To mould materials like velvet and suede, which don’t have much give, is very complicated.To attain the design, Andrew developed leather crimping machines, which mould the fabric and leather 11 times over several days.