A Marni Rave, a Ferragamo Reboot

MILAN, Italy — Men’s wear week in Milan doesn’t look much like it used to. Many of the city’s big names (Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Jil Sander among them) are sitting the season out. Some are lumping their men’s shows in with their women’s; others, like Jil Sander, are simply staying quietly out of the spotlight. And new designers have been installed in familiar houses: At Zegna, at Marni and at Salvatore Ferragamo.

Marni is tottering out on new legs for the first time. The label has always been synonymous with Consuelo Castiglioni: She founded it, designed it and steered it for more than 20 years. Then, last year, Renzo Rosso, whose Only the Brave group completed its acquisition of Marni in 2015, announced that she would depart. Francesco Risso, a longtime lieutenant of Miuccia Prada’s, would take over.

It is possible to miss Ms. Castiglioni while acknowledging that Mr. Risso made a strong debut on Saturday, clever in its zaniness. Brave in it, too. This was not a timid tiptoe out of the gate.

Mr. Risso’s rumpled Marni men tromped through passageways lit with digital videos, in which animated domestic scenes — the bathroom, the apartment hallway — suddenly melted into acid-trip swirls. The D.J. Mimi Xu, on hand to play the late-night after party, was musing before the show about turning it into a “cheeky little rave.” The collection, with its screeching colors, tufted-fur hats, belt-bags and hand-painted prints, did look ready to party.

“Rave Marni,” I said to Mr. Risso, a 34-year-old sprite with corkscrew curls.

“That’s what it needs to be,” he said.

Backstage after the show, Mr. Risso offered his own theory of the collection — “One plus one is one plus one” — which doesn’t sound unlike the kind of early-morning musings you might hear among the slightly fried in the chill room. “That’s it,” he insisted. On that, he said no more, though you wouldn’t be surprised to hear the phrase punctuated with “P.L.U.R.!”, the durable rave mantra. But when he said he hoped the collection would “announce vulnerability,” that made good club sense. “The vulnerability that you want to bring ahead into your adult life,” he added.

Its vulnerability was its strength, the brash openness of its raw, nervy weirdness. There were some clothes here that were silly and some that were frankly ugly (which, in design, is often taken as a measure of seriousness; Mrs. Prada has long known that, and Mr. Risso has evidently learned his Prada lessons well). But the show provided a jolt, Marni-ish in spirit, that zapped Milan’s opening days. It is only Mr. Risso’s first collection, but it left many in the grumpy crowd smiling. That’s a good way to start.

Not every debut can be a rebel yell, and not every label has Marni’s esoteric heritage. By necessity, Guillaume Meilland’s first collection as the men’s design director of Salvatore Ferragamo was statelier, quieter, less likely to spook the horses. Mr. Meilland, lately of Lanvin in Paris, tweaked the proportions of Ferragamo’s suits and coats to suit his particular fancy, offering an elongated, slim silhouette as well as a boxier, work-wear inspired one.

It was an elegant adjustment rather than a reboot. But there were fine pieces throughout that caught your eye, even those that a lesser designer might have considered throwaways, like the finely striped turtlenecks that peeked out from under shirts. Every detail was considered, down to the shoes — which is important, because, while runway shows are well and good, Ferragamo is a footwear company before anything else.

Mr. Meilland’s handsome, round-toed boots, with clunky, diamond-studded lug soles, were all right, but the sleek, hand-stitched Italian loafers were better. That bodes well for Mr. Meilland, and it bodes well for Ferragamo.

Guillaume Meilland, the newly appointed Salvatore Ferragamo men’s design director

Guillaume Meilland, the newly appointed Salvatore Ferragamo men’s design director, presented his first show today. To mark the occasion, he hit the refresh button, starting from a redesign of the show space, giving it a more open, industrial feel, which suited the collection’s streamlined, urban allure. It also set the tone for his attitude toward the Florentine house’s codes: respectful, but not reverential.
Meilland cut his teeth on menswear at Saint Laurent during Stefano Pilati’s tenure, before departing for Lanvin, where he worked with Lucas Ossendrijver for roughly eight years. It’s safe to say he knows a thing or two about French allure. Yet the Italian flair for elegance and the absolute excellence of its savoir faire fascinates him. “I’d like to bridge the Italian sartorial finesse with a modern sportswear edge, as well as blending traditional techniques with new technologies,” he said at a preview a few days before the show. He professed his admiration for Salvatore Ferragamo, the house’s maestro, whose curiosity and open spirit he found inspiring: “He was up to explore and experiment, finding new ways to inject his Italian sense of luxe with an international approach.”
Meilland worked on streamlining the silhouette, elongating coats, slimming and narrowing pants, and shortening jackets’ proportions. Volumes were given a light, supple feel, which didn’t detract from a dry architectural bent that revealed the designer’s penchant for a sharp, modern edge. He kept it in check, though, smoothing it with an emphasis on a precise yet subtle sensuality and the use of the finest fabrics, elements so ingrained in many Italian menswear companies, they’re even more sacred than the national anthem.
For all his fascination with Italian classy elegance, Meilland couldn’t help but put Serge Gainsbourg’s “New York USA” on the soundtrack. It underlined the urban feel that he favored, and the energy that he tried to inject into the collection. Outerwear had the lion’s share, with elongated city coats or more structured belted trenches. Suits were reworked, shortening the jackets and pairing them with narrow, cropped pants for décontracté tailoring. Knitwear was chunky, hand-knitted, and looked luxurious. The color palette was mainly kept dark, with occasional flashes of color. Overall, Meilland was off to a good, confident start; he got the house’s codes quite right.

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International brand Ferragamo always with its reputation of high quality footwear the yearning for the aristocratic ladies around the world. Audrey Hepburn, Sophia loren, Marilyn Monroe, Madonna, these in the name of the world film history yi yi is unripe brightness, with Ferragamo made a and a “fairy shoe colors”, has left many good memories for the fashion industry.

Ferragamo shoes, clothes and silk scarves and other accessories, all reveal a kind of elegant style, but no matter how his design idea, he always believe in the importance of both practicality and style, and it is especially significant in shoe design. Ferragamo shoes comfort and design is the same important, because for many women wear inappropriate shoes for foot disease, Ferragamo was surprised.

Make out shoes to make himself more comfortable, he studied at the university of California sole structural, where Ferragamo learned how the weight of the body, putting pressure on the soles of your feet, so he designed to join iron shoes to strengthen shoes at arch support. In industrial mechanization s, Ferragamo manufacture method can calculate its own. First of all, he measure the foot size for guest, and then put the shoe on a piece of wood block. Although in the case of the growing demand, Ferragamo was forced to expand business, but he still refused to use the machine to make shoes, so he came up with the manual production line solution, namely each staff in the process of making shoes for certain parts, in this way, he in business expansion and still does not need to rely on machinery.

Massimo Ferragamo explains why you should consider exploring the beloved Italian region during the winter months

Massimo Ferragamo

Most travelers to Tuscany visit during the summer and fall, exploring the sunlit countryside and book-ending the trip with a jaunt to Florence and Rome. But for Massimo Ferragamo—son of legendary designer Salvatore and chairman of Ferragamo USA—and his wife, Chiara, there’s something to be said for the winter months in Tuscany, too. The couple are founders of Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco, a historic estate (and UNESCO World Heritage site) in the countryside of Montalcino, whose 17th- and 18th-century farmhouses have been converted into luxury villas available for rent. For the first time ever, the villas will remain open through the winter, allowing guests to experience firsthand the Tuscan season preferred by the Ferragamos. “Around the holidays, Tuscany is an absolutely magical place to be,” says Ferragamo. In case you need convincing, AD asked the native Italian for the best reasons to visit this time of year. Get your passports ready!

“From Montalcino to Montepulciano to Siena, Tuscan towns come alive with charming Christmas markets where guests can shop for artisanal goods while enjoying delicious bites and live music and entertainment,” Ferragamo says.

“Winter is an exciting time for wine in Tuscany,” Ferragamo says. “Many people think the fall harvest is the best time to experience the wine region, but February is quite an exciting time as well; it’s when the new vintage of Brunello di Montalcino is released. Visitors can participate in two events around the new Brunello: the by-invitation-only new-year release Benvenuto Brunello and the Brunello Crossing. The Brunello Crossing is a noncompetitive race, a two-day event taking place on February 11 and 12 in Montalcino and its breathtaking countryside, and includes guided tours of wineries to highlight the connection between sport, territory, wine, and food.”
3. Truffles
“Truffle hunting is another fun activity that is at its best in the winter months,” Ferragamo says. “Taking part in a truffle hunt accompanied by local experts and their highly trained dogs, followed, of course, by delicious tastings is an incredibly unique and fun experience.”

Ferragamo Partners with Italian Revenue Body for IP-Specific Tax Breaks

Ferragamo Partners
Salvatore Ferragamo has taken a pioneering role in terms of participation in Italy’s Patent Box, an optional benefit that reduces taxation for income derived from the direct use or license of intellectual property (“IP”) assets. Enacted in December 2014, the Patent Box is aimed at protecting Italian IP property and boosting the country’s profile as an attractive home for foreign investment and R&D activity.

Italian companies that perform research and development (“R&D”) activities in order to maintain, enhance or develop their IP assets, including copyrights, trademarks, and patents, are eligible for the tax break. Design house Salvatore Ferragamo, which holds an array of Italian and international IP rights – including design patents for handbags, watches and perfume bottles – is one of the first big name fashion brands to pair with the Italian Revenue Agency to form a preliminary agreement in connection with the Patent Box regime. Parties’ specific deal defines the method for calculation of the quota of Ferragamo’s income exempt from income taxes for the purposes of the Patent Box in relation to the direct use of its IP assets.

While the Patent Box program is new to Italy, it follows the recent European trend to assess appealing tax measures in order to attract foreign investments and relocate IP assets. Some European countries – including France, Spain, United Kingdom, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Belgium and Ireland – have already developed similar systems. Differing from most of them, though, the Italian Patent Box has wider and more specific advantages targeted to the Italian market.

The qualifying intangible assets entitled for the Italian patent box regime specifically include: (1) trademarks; (2) industrial patents, utility models, biotech inventions, patents for plant varieties, semiconductors and topographies; (3) business, commercial, industrial and scientific information and know-how that can be held as secret and which are capable of legal protection; (4) formulae and processes; (5) design models that are legally protected; and (6) software protected by copyright.

Ever the vigilant protector of its IP rights, Ferragamo made headlines in May 2015 when it filed suit against former Los Angeles Rams football quarterback Vince Ferragamo, accusing him of infringing its trademarks by operating a similarly-named winery. According to Ferragamo SpA’s complaint, which was filed in the Southern District of New York, a federal court in Manhattan, Vince Ferragamo is selling wine with the Tenuta di Ferragamo name, and is likely to confuse consumers (the key inquiry in a trademark infringement action) into believing the two are connected or that Ferragamo SpA has endorsed the venture.